David Ramsden’s latest addition to The Dogs chain is Seadogs on Rose Street, and with this new pup in Ramsden’s pedigree litter comes his fourth restaurant offering what the Dogs chain is becoming known for – affordable but quality culinary delights.
You couldn’t help but feel lucky to get a table at Seadogs during the “silly season” that is the Edinburgh Festival; the place was bursting at the seams with culture vultures engrossed in planning their show schedules at every table. With two glasses of very quaffable, if not memorable, rosé in front of us we scanned the menu which detailed such delightful combinations as trout and spiced veg crisps and seafood potage with bulgar wheat. In the end my lunch partner and I both plumped for the tomato seafood chowder. What arrived was different in every way from the wallpaper paste that all too often is branded as “chowder” by many Scottish restaurants. Instead Ramsden’s capable team have come up with a hearty, robust stew of a chowder which means serious business and has flavours that jostle for position in all the right ways. Succulent squid, moist coley, plump mussels and chunky vegetables, seasoned to perfection and with a hint of chilli that adds interest but doesn’t overwhelm – this was a chowder to remember.
With Ramsden’s history of a previous restaurant having gone belly up 5 years ago its perhaps not surprising that he is keeping this and his other canine culinary ventures on a tight lead. On our visit he was in charge front of house, with whippet like intensity he could be seen bounding from one to table to the next and his efforts are paying dividends; service was unflappable and efficient despite the festival crowds, and the low key efficiency allows for a relaxed atmosphere. Where other restaurants have been known to let standards slip during the Festival frenzy the Seadogs appears to be winning through, with an approach which allows good ingredients to shine in simple but well executed dishes.
The restaurant is kitted out in basic bistro style, with odd tables and chairs and simple lighting. Ultimately a visit to Seadogs is about pleasure of the stomach rather than fancy décor – this worldly wise seadog is both confident and self assured.
Peanut butter chocolate cheesecake completed the meal and proved to be an admirable encore, a crispy base with an unctuous creamy filling. With coffees to follow the bill came to less than £30 and left you feeling you’d eaten quality without the hefty price tag.
It appears that with Seadogs Ramsden, who it has to be said has something of the old seadog about him, has pulled off what many restaurateurs in central Edinburgh and beyond have found a difficult mix, good quality food at an affordable price. In this, “time of austerity” this has to be a winning combination. If Ramsden can keep to these standards the Seadogs will be busy long after the fringe goers have departed.
If you like Seadogs, then venture out to the other Dogs in the fast growing chain:
(A)more Dogs – Hanover Street
The Dogs – Hanover Street
The Underdogs – Hanover Street
43 Rose Street
Edinburgh
0131 225 8028
Catherine Henderson
