Informed Interview: Steven Adair

Local chef Steven Adair is well known on Edinburgh culinary scene. He was head chef at the award-winning Glasshouse at Eskmills for three years, and is now back in the city centre with his exciting new venture, The Glasshouse off the Mile. We spoke to Steven about the new restaurant, Scottish cuisine and his ultimate comfort food…

Can you tell us a bit about your new venture?

During the day, the feel of The Glasshouse off the Mile is very much cafe culture, with my usual ‘signature’ of providing good food at value-for-money prices. The evening menu contains a number of my signature dishes including the Aberdeen Angus fillet of beef with smoked garlic and shitake mushroom broth and seared foie gras. Another is The Glasshouse chocolate indulgence which is a summer cherrytiffin with kirch soaked cherries in chocolate, white chocolate sorbet served in a chocolate wafer, and chocolate torte served with a strawberry dipped in white chocolate.

Apart from the location, how does it differ to the Glasshouse at Eskmills?

The location attracts a different market, so the menu has been tweaked to suit that market. However, I’ve not sacrificed my usual high standards, so you’ll still be getting very good food at value-for-money prices.

What is your signature style when cooking?

I’m all about attention to detail – whether I’m preparing a club sandwich or one of my sauces that can take three days to prepare. No matter what we prepare, everything takes time and passion.

The sauce I create to go with my lamb dish can take up to three days to get right as I search for the right combination of flavours – but it’s a labour of love.

How do you keep track of new developments in the culinary world?

I’ve been in the business a long, long time! In my career, I’ve been linked with many famous places, from Gleneagles to The Witchery, and along the way have met many of the faces that are familiar in the Edinburgh restaurant world today. We do it the old-fashioned way – we talk to each other.

What is special about Scottish cuisine?

Scottish produce is second to none and when it comes to ingredients, we, as chefs, are lucky to have them on our doorstep. Many people find it hard to get great ingredients that are as good as ours.

What’s your absolute favourite comfort food?

A bacon and egg roll where the egg dribbles down your chin!

When you’re not working what do you love to do?

I tend to spend my time with people who love food. It’s my passion and nothing gives me more pleasure than sitting around a table with friends sharing good food and the odd bottle of wine. I often go out with the “shortest person in the house” to raid the garden, and we have fun preparing what we picked from the natural larder for our dinner.

What’s next for you?

One of my joys in life is passing on my skills to the younger generation, whether it’s training a young chef in my kitchen or working with kids in one of the school projects in which I’m involved. I have the opportunity to do this through the family business as we extend the chain through the main towns and cities of Scotland.

The Glasshouse off the Mile is located at the top end of the Royal Mile on St Giles Street.