Our Guide to Victoria St and Grassmarket

Running from the Royal Mile and down along the foot of Castle Rock, Victoria Street, West Bow and Grassmarket have long been central to the charm of Edinburgh’s historic Old Town. With the original cobbled streets and medieval architecture largely intact, and stunning views of the Castle just a glance away, Edinburgh’s ancient centre is one of the most atmospheric and beautiful places in the world to while away an afternoon – easily the rival of Prague or Budapest.

Though parts of Victoria Street were destroyed in a fire in late 2008, the area is just as lively as ever and with repair and renovation work due to finish soon, will at last be returned to its former glory. Grassmarket, despite being inundated by tourists every summer, remains a favourite amongst locals for the sheer variety of shops, restaurants and bars it has to offer. It’s the perfect place to soak in the city’s atmosphere and offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy al fresco dining and drinking well into the night.

With summer upon us, we reveal our favourite shops, bars, restaurants, cafes and boutiques in the heart of the Old Town.

Victoria Street

Bow Bar

80 West Bow, EH1 2HH, 0131 226 7667

Tucked unassumingly away behind a modest, narrow frontage, The Bow Bar is a stark contrast to many of the city’s flashier, louder drinking establishments. With only a single open room and bar, The Bow is unashamedly traditional and has earned a formidable reputation as one of the best places in Edinburgh to enjoy a quiet pint, in no small part due to the pub’s strict ‘no music’ policy. The selection of beers, ales and whiskies is nothing short of staggering – a genuine wonderland for the discerning drinker.

Hula Juice Bar

103 West Bow, EH3 5AL, 0131 220 1121, www.hulagood.com

Edinburgh is hardly short of juice bars, counters and stands but Hula on West Bow sets itself apart with a comprehensive juice menu, a sit-in café and a delightfully quirky sense of humour. Many of the concoctions are named after fictional characters and celebrities, often in a distinctly tongue-in-cheek fashion – the ‘Betty Ford’ is billed as the ultimate cure for overindulgence. The food menu is surprisingly varied for such a small establishment, while the coffee almost rivals the juices and smoothies for quality.

Mussel and Steak Bar

110 West Bow, EH1 2HH, 0131 225 5028, http://musselandsteakbar.com

Arguably the best seafood and steak restaurant in Edinburgh all in one premises, Mussel and Steak Bar does pretty much what it says on the tin and serves excellent mussels (and oysters) and delicious, cooked-to-order steak (although it must be noted that there is, in fact, no bar).  Despite the apparently limited selection of ingredients, the menu is full of creative and imaginative dishes, ranging from seafood curry to crab and mango salad and surf & turf.

Oink Hog Roast

34 Victoria Street, EH1 2JW, 0131 220 0089, www.reiver-foods.co.uk

A regular at the weekly Edinburgh Farmer’s Market since 2001, the Oink Hog Roast shop is the natural successor to the stall that first provided a deliciously original take on the simple bacon roll. Oink may only offer two menu options – roast hog roll and roast hog roll with crackling – but the quality of the pork and selection of traditional condiments makes up for any shortcomings in variety. Meat is sourced from the owners’ farm in the Scottish Borders and served in delicious, thick slices. Some visitors may be put off at the sight of a full roasting hog in the window, while others may find it simply helps whet their appetite.

Red Door Gallery

42 Victoria Street, EH1 2JW, 0101 229 7884, www.edinburghart.com

Billing itself as one of Edinburgh’s most distinctive boutique art spaces, Red Door Gallery is the ideal place to go to view stunning original artwork by cutting-edge local designers. Much of the work on display is available to purchase at relatively affordable prices and collections are frequently changed to keep the displays fresh for both casual visitors and serious art buffs. The Red Door is also home to a delightful gift shop selling all manner of unusual items, including prints, artists’ books and lomography cameras.

Grassmarket

Helios Fountain

7 Grassmarket, EH1 2HY, 0101 229 7884, www.helios-fountain.co.uk

An eclectic gift shop towards the western extreme of the Grassmarket, Helios Fountain is home to one of the most unusual ranges of gifts, presents and miscellanea available anywhere in Edinburgh. Books, beads, wooden toys and cuddly animals of various kinds are available in a dizzying array of choice but there’s also a focus on crafting materials and make-your-own items, especially for children.

Owl & Lion Gallery

15 Grassmarket, Edinburgh EH1 2HS, 0131 220 0900, www.owlandliongallery.com

Another ground-breaking artspace in the centre of the historic Old Town, Owl & Lion is both gallery and boutique, allowing local and international artists to exhibit, share, promote and sell their work to Edinburgh’s art connoisseurs. An in-house book bindery and design studio allow for the creation of truly unique handbound books as well as a range of cutting edge bags, prints and t-shirts. Owl & Lion also run bookbinding workshops, taught by owner Isabelle Ting.

Petit Paris

38-40 Grassmarket, EH1 2JU,0131 226 2442, www.petitparis-restaurant.co.uk

Bringing a touch of French flair to the Grassmarket, Petit Paris offers a truly Gallic culinary experience in or out of doors. The blue checked table cloths and strings of onions and garlic lend to an atmosphere just the right side of clichéd, but it’s the al fresco dining that’s central to the restaurant’s appeal. The menu revolves around traditional French classics from snails to bouillabaisse and much more besides. Portion sizes are generous, though the wine list is a bit more limited than one might expect.

White Hart Inn

34 Grassmarket, EH1 2JU - 0131 226 2806

With cellars allegedly dating back to the sixteenth century and the building above ground to 1740, the White Hart Inn can perhaps lay claim to being the oldest pub in central Edinburgh – only the Sheep Heid Inn in Duddington is rumoured to be older. The White Hart was recently voted Edinburgh’s ‘most haunted’ drinking establishment though thankfully the spirits most visitors will encounter are all together more familiar, as the pub boasts an impressive selection of whiskies and other tipples. The White Hart also plays host to live Scottish music every night.

Have we missed one of your favourite Victoria Street, West Bow or Grassmarket haunts? Let us know in the comments below.