The ongoing development of many waterfront areas mean that the Leith of 2010 is a far cry from Irvine Walsh’s depiction in his 1993 novel ‘Trainspotting’. What was previously rough-edged and derelict has now become a hive of smart new developments, bars, flats and businesses. An active port for over a thousand years, Leith is only a short bus ride from Edinburgh city centre – so even as port activities decline, tourism is steadily rising. A mixture of old and new architecture, Leith has kept its historic attractions intact while giving birth to a vibrant and bustling modern culture, something that is celebrated annually by the Leith Festival. Running from June 11th-20th the festival holds over 100 events in 50 venues around Leith, all celebrating the heitage, culture and diversity of the area.
And with the Festival kicking off this weekend, what better time to enjoy the hidden delights of the famous port and burgh? We take in Leith and Leith Walk in our guide to where to eat, drink and shop by the docks.
Roseleaf
23-24 Sandport Pl
http://roseleaf.co.uk
0131 476 5268
One of Leith’s few remaining gastro pubs The Roseleaf does comfort food and a homely atmosphere to near perfection. A quirky interior brimming with knick-knacks, mismatched junk shop furniture and an old piano, the cafe-pub mixes old fashioned charm with a slightly hippy feel. Serving beer and spirits alongside cocktails in old, brightly decorated teapots the bar embraces the extraordinary. A local favourite, cocktails also come with a delightful cup and saucer. With the option of a tea party and brunch menu, eating out at the Roseleaf is a little unusual. Food may sound bizarre; the bar serves a peanut butter, jelly, bacon and banana toasty, but you’re guaranteed generous portions and a slightly off-the-wall dining experience.
Sofi’s Bar
65 Henderson Street
www.bodabar.com
0131 555 7019
With a different theme every evening, Sofi’s Bar has plenty to recommend it. Movie night on Mondays, Knitting on a Tuesday and regular open mic sessions ensure that the bar is almost always busy. A pioneer of the ‘bar boot sale’ and even clothes swap nights, Sofi’s has fast become a second home to many of Leith’s locals. With huge comfy armchairs creating a relaxed atmosphere, Sofi’s has an eclectic feel. Organic cookies and cakes available all day mean that despite being hidden away on the waterfront, Sofi’s is well known and a local favourite. Full of character and a community vibe, the bar is a hub of activity to a chic, upbeat clientele. Boda, Victoria and Joseph Pearce’s, all run by the same proprietors as Sofi’s, are also well worth a visit.
Royal Yacht Britannia
Ocean Terminal
www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk
0131 555 5566
The Royal Yacht Britannia is a ship as famous as its passengers. Sailing over a million miles in its lifetime and coming to rest permanently at Ocean Terminal, The Royal Family’s former yacht is now one of Edinburgh’s main tourist hotspots. Having carried the Queen on 968 official voyages worldwide, Britannia is brimming with memorabilia and now open to the public. Sensitively converted from its days as a floating stately home and embassy, a tour of the yacht allows you to experience life as both a royal passenger and crew member. Half a century worth of travel and a host of famous faces passing through its hallways make Britannia well worth climbing aboard.
Elvis Shakespeare
347 Leith Walk
www.elvisshakespeare.com
0131 561 1363
Named after two of the most iconic cultural figures in human history, this music and literature shop has something for everyone. Selling everything from rare vinyl albums to classic novels and literary criticisms, the quirky store attracts a diverse crowd. Reasonably priced and packed full of material to browse through, Elvis Shakespere is to literary and musically-minded locals as a sweetshop is to children. Highly recommended for its helpful staff, the store has been labelled a hidden gem. An unusual mixture of classic vinyl and well picked literature means that Elvis Shakespeare has the edge over Edinburgh’s many bookstores and corporate music shops.
The Kitchin
78 Commercial Quay
www.thekitchin.com
0131 555 1755
Awarded a Michelin star in 2007 and continuing to win awards for both service and standards, The Kitchin prides itself on its innovative menu offering modern interpretations of traditional Scottish dishes. Owned by husband and wife duo Tom & Michaela Kitchin, the restaurant has a simple ethos; to deliver consistent quality with seasonal menus made from local produce. Located at the trendy Commercial Quay, the restaurant works closely with Scottish suppliers, even hiring its own Orkney-based scallop diver. Also offering a private dining service, the stylish restaurant ensures that its cuisine can be enjoyed all over the city.
Deli Polonia
237 Leith Walk, 0131 1555 1281
Clean-cut, authentic Polish and Bulgarian deli with a wide selection of imported goods.
Tiso
41 Commercial Street, 0131 554 9101
Outdoor specialist stocking a wide range of outdoor clothing and equipment.
La Favorita
325-331 Leith Walk, 0131 554 2430
Award winning Italian pizza restaurant.
Malmaison
1 Tower Place, 0131 468 5000
Stylish boutique hotel located on the banks of the River Forth.
Martin Wishart
54 The Shore, 0131 553 3557
Fashionable restaurant serving modern French cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.
Out of the Blue
Drill Hall, 30–36 Dalmeny Street Leith, 0131 555 7100
Studio and production space for Edinburgh’s cultural and artistic community
Valvona and Crolla
19 Elm Row, 0131 556 6066
Scotland’s oldest Italian delicatessen and wine merchant
Words: Laura McLean
