Fanning out from the buzzing intersection of Princes Street, Lothian Road, Shandwick Place and Queensferry Street, Edinburgh’s West End is both a literal and metaphorical crossroads for the city’s population.
Shoppers traversing Princes Street merge with tourists setting out from one of the area’s several high-end hotels, while office workers from the financial district west of Lothian Road keep pace with commuters changing buses or making their way to Haymarket station for the train journey to Glasgow and West Lothian.
Originally built as a swanky extension of the New Town, the massive villas once occupied by members of Edinburgh’s professional elite now rub shoulders with contemporary constructions of glass and steel owned by banking, insurance and legal firms. Meanwhile, away from the bustle of the main thoroughfares, the area around Stafford Street and William Street has a quirky, slightly bohemian feel bolstered by the presence of a range of independent boutiques and businesses that go well beyond standard high-street offerings.
On and off the beaten track, it’s a brilliant location for people-watching, and there is no shortage of pubs, cafés and restaurants offering sustenance and shelter to the crowds. Here are just a few highlights of the many establishments on offer.
La P’tite Folie
Tudor House, 9 Randolph Place EH3 7TE, 0131 225 8678
www.laptitefolie.co.uk
Within the walls of its distinctive timber-framed Tudor building, La P’tite Folie (“The Little Madness”) offers an airy escape from the stresses of city living. The traditional French fare on offer here is hearty, simple yet delectably satisfying, served by amiable staff in spacious surroundings that still manage to feel cosy and inviting. While its sister restaurant on Frederick Street has adopted the eclectic decor of a bustling French bistro, the emphasis here is on the grace and elegance of the dining experience, enhanced by the addition of a separate wine bar on the ground floor.
Arkangel & Felon
4 William Street EH3 7NH, 0131 226 4466
This fashionable boutique offers a glittering array of quirky and lovely pieces that are unique but still highly wearable. Recently refurbished and renamed, the shop stocks unique pieces by Lilith, Ilse Jacobsen, and Wilbur & Gussie, and will soon be featuring a line of jewellery by Fiona Paxton, as well as clothes from Lolly’s Laundry, Ruby Jeans, and Winter Kate, among others.
The Cupboard
10 William Street EH3 7NH, 0131 226 6580
www.thecupboard.co.uk
The tone at this boutique is decidedly understated and highly chic. In fact, The Cupboard specialises in low-key elegance. The clothes here are sleek, contemporary, yet with just enough edge to make them stand out from the crowd. The look will particularly appeal to seasoned fashionistas who are beyond the stage of obsessively following trends, while the staff’s non-pushy sales philosophy will come as a breath of fresh air to jaded shoppers. A quick browse in the Cupboard uncovers designs by Ischiko, Annette Gortz and Absolut, among others.
The Rutland Hotel/The One Below
1-3 Rutland Street EH1 2AE, 0131 229 3402
www.therutlandhotel.com
Commanding a prime position with panoramic views of the castle, The Rutland Hotel, Restaurant and Bar provide a setting that is at once sophisticated and comfortable. With a sumptuous contemporary baroque decor, the ground-level bar and first-floor restaurant offer a simple yet stylish and very tasty take on modern Scottish cuisine, including pleasingly presented bar food and seasonal cocktails. Meanwhile, the twelve individually-decorated bedrooms in the boutique hotel provide a classy yet cosy base from which to explore the city. For after-hours entertainment, The One Below is the Rutland’s underground lounge bar, a luxurious den of intimate opulence featuring twelve vaulted booths (each with their own iPod dock) as well as the UK’s first iBar, an interactive bar design that responds to touch by changing colour.
Songkran Thai
24a Stafford Street EH3 7BD, 0131 225 7889
This easy-to-miss eatery is a lunchtime haven for an army of devoted regulars addicted to its flavourful, good-value Thai cooking. Less formal than its sister restaurant in Stockbridge, the original Songkran is an understated affair. Its single room, decorated in a traditional Thai theme, is tucked away at the bottom of a narrow stair from the street. With cheerful staff and a popular takeaway menu, this is a true local gem offering a solid selection of Thai favourites, ranging from duck and pad Thai to stirfries and curries, plus a generous array of vegetarian options.
Helen Bateman
16 William Street EH3 7NH, 0131 220 4495
www.helenbateman.com
A treasure trove for lovers of funky and pretty footwear, designer Helen Bateman’s designs are distinctive and striking yet still reasonably priced. With a sharp eye for exquisite detail and fabric, Bateman produces two stylish collections each year, as well as a handy permanent collection of basic designs. The shop is this year celebrating its tenth anniversary, and has recently expanded its floor space and its range to include a small collection of clothing carefully selected to complement its shoes and accessories.
Jewellery by Liam Ross
51 William Street EH3 7LW, 0131 225 6599
www.jewellerybyliamross.com
Specialising in wedding bands and modern Celtic designs, Liam Ross’s graceful, fluid compositions are rooted in tradition yet possess a sleek contemporary appeal. He also offers a bespoke service, working carefully with clients to create a unique work of art that perfectly expresses their own personal vision and taste. With twelve years of experience working as a jeweller in Edinburgh, his exquisite work is available to view in this workshop-cum-boutique in the West End.
Have we left out any of your favourites? Let us know in the comments below.
